Germany holidays: kings, castles and a very British connection
Braunschweig, Hanover and nearby towns Celle and Marienburg are fertile castle-hunting territory
It’s fair to say, judging by the size of the National Trust and the success of programmes like Downton Abbey, that we British like a good castle. And it is fair to say, judging by the acres of print devoted to royals, that we like a good monarchy, too.
Well, there’s a region of Germany where castles and the (British) monarchy overlap. That region is Niedersachsen – Lower Saxony – former home of the Hanoverians.
The oldest royal house in EuropeThe Hanoverians are the headline act in the Niedersachsen scene, with a history that stretches back over 1,000 years. Their earliest base was at Braunschweig, where Henry the Lion set up shop as Duke of Saxony, back in 1145. The grand palace in Braunschweig was badly damaged in the Second World War, but has been rebuilt and there’s a new museum telling the castle’s story.
Much better preserved, especially considering their age, are the castles at Gifhorn and at Celle, north of Braunschweig. Celle dates back to 1292, and has paintings celebrating the link with Great Britain in its Royal Hall. It also has fabulous Baroque state rooms from the 19th century, when it was used as a summer residence.
Of course the main residence, especially during the time of the union with the British throne, was Hanover itself, which was also much damaged in the Second World War. For years, the most visible souvenir of the dynasty’s most glorious era was the stunning Royal Gardens at Herrenhausen, the creation of Electress Sophia, mother of King George I of England. But this year there’s an exciting new story with the opening of the re-built castle itself, an event which was attended by Princesses Beatrice and Eugenie, in honour of the long connection.
Although the British/Hanoverian adventure ended with Queen Victoria, the family continues at Marienburg Castle, just south of Hanover, which is owned by the current Prince Ernst August. A truly impressive beast of a place, built in the 1860s in Gothic revival style, the castle has guided tours and a fine restaurant, and a touch of the Disneys about it. Marienburg is also a very popular venue for weddings and has a busy programme of outdoor and indoor concerts, both classical and jazz.
Weser RenaissanceThe other castle story in Niedersachsen is the string of 16th and 17th century properties that line up along the river Weser between Bremen and Hann. Münden, built by a variety of princes and knights in a uniquely decorative style.
They include Bückeburg castle, in the town of the same name, which is a hugely impressive venue for concerts and exhibitions, surrounded by parkland and gardens. Hämelschenburg castle, between Bückeburg and Hamelin, a jewel of a fortified mansion with art collections, gardens, a water mill, farm buildings and a church. And finally Bevern castle, further south, a royal residence which dates back to 1612, and today is much used for concerts and theatrical performances.
